Rafting outside of Cusco

We spent a great day white water rafting class III and IV rapids outside of Cusco with our friends Kolby and John. There's so much to do it Cusco!

Farewell, Cusco. Good Morning, Arequipa.

We arrived in Arequipa at 6:30AM this morning after an incredible overnight bus ride. We heeded our own advice, and splurged on the 60 soles ($20) Flores luxury bus with enormous black leather seats, overhead lights, free dinner (some little bits of beef and onions with rice and a gooey, gelatinous pineapple desert), and a movie, (Attila the Hun... special), in English. When the bus pulled into the Arequipa bus terminal, we were so comfy that we didn't want to de-board! Prior to our trip, we were advised by a friend to purchase some Xanex to ease the pain of bus travel. We wrote the name Diazepam (the Peruvian version of Xanex), on a piece of paper, and, at a local pharmacy, the following conversation ensued:

Rives: (handing over the piece of paper) I need Diazepam, please.
Pharmacist: No. Need prescription for that.
Rives: My doctor says that I need it for my fear of flight.
Pharmacist: Need prescription.
Rives: He said that I didn't.
Pharmacist: Yes, you do... OK, I only give you ten pills. Generic is alright?
Rives: Yes, thank you. How much?
Pharmacist: Ten Soles ($3.33)

We really, really miss Cusco. There were moments when we considered ditching the Buenos Aires plan altogether and settling there instead. Every day we found another excuse to extend our stay. (ex: We could go whitewater rafting tomorrow! Velandia y La Tigra is playing tomorrow night! We need to eat a few more meals at Granja Heidi!) But we did it. We finally tore ourselves away from Cusco's divine clutches, and we're ready to take on Arequipa!

A Lesson in Colombian Music

New friends, Paulo and Jorje taught us a bunch about Colombian music the other day. I have lots of great new stuff on my ipod. I'll try and figure out how to put up an mp3 you can download, but for now here's a video by a relatively new Colombian band called Systema Solar, enjoy!

Peruvian Banksy?

Spotted near one of our favorite Cusco bars. No evidence to suggest it's actually Banksy, but certainly brings him to mind.

Granja Heidi (Cusco)

Thanks to Frommer's Peru 2006, we've discovered our new favorite restaurant in the world. It's called Granja Heidi. They ascribe to the slow food philosophy, but the food is well worth the wait. The restaurant was started by a German couple and the majority of their ingredients come from their farm just outside Cusco. Everything is organic and local, their homemade cheeses and yogurts are to die for! Believe it or not, we stayed an extra night in Cusco for the sole purpose of having every meal at this restaurant...

Each meal begins with a delicious amuse bouche, usually a small slice of freshly baked bread topped with some homemade cream cheese.

Delicious fresh squeezed juice (we prefer the banana-mango)

Crepes!

Amazing mixed salad with chicken (and our new friend Joanna!)

The tomato and indian spice milk of Granja's extensive milk menu (all from their own cows of course)

Stalker pic of Granja Heidi!

Andean Apparel (fashion inspiration from our travels)

Henry, 17

(percussionist, Velandia y la Tigra)

Hanging out in Cusco

We've had a great time in Cusco so far! Some pictures....

Today we went on a horseback ride to the Incan ruins of Saqsaywaman

We got off our horses and hiked for a bit. Photo op with our new Swedish friend Andreas.

The 3 hour trip cost 15 soles or about $5!!

We spent most of yesterday meadering through the cobblstoned streets of Cusco. This is the view from Qoricancha (Templo del Sol).

Qoricancha interior

Best Hostel Ever! (Cusco)

We had planned to stay with someone we found through couchsurfers.com in Cusco, but had some trouble connecting at the last minute so we checked into the Pariwana Hostel and couldn't be happier. This place is literally paradise and is full of amazing people including a Colombian band called Velandia and La Tigra. Last night a gig they had in town cancelled and they played a show in the Pariwana bar/dining room, great fun!

This one's a little tough to see, but it is my favorite room...the tv room, and the floor is covered in pillows and bean bags. They also have a laundry service and free breakfast!

Photos From the Bus

Adios Lima!

The moonscape view from our side of the bus...

the other side had a view of the ocean!

Break for dinner!

Views in the morning.

Waiting for an hour and a half because of road work! We bought some corn and cheese from these nice ladies...

Our glorious first meal at Chez Maggy in Cusco of ham, sausage, banana, and egg pizza and mate de coca, a tea that's supposed to help travelers adjust to Cusco's high altitude of 11,000 feet. Granted we were starving, but this pizza was delicious, we'll have to try and recreate it when we get back to the states!