best hostel: Pariwana, Cusco
best free breakfast: crepes at Bothy Hostel, Arequipa
best restaurant: Granja Heidi, Cusco
hottest commodity: clean drinking water (close second: toilet paper)
best outdoor activity: trekking in Colca Canyon
coolest cultural landmark: Santa Catalina Convent, Arequipa (close second: Coricancha, Cusco)
favorite new band: Velandia y la Tigra, Colombia
best food: ceviche, Punto Azul, Lima (close second: ham, banana, and egg pizza at Chez Maggie, Cusco)
worst food: anticuchos (cow heart)
best guilty pleasure: wafers. we were up to a pack a day for a while...
best hosts: Gustvao and Miguel, Lima
biggest disappointment: Machu Picchu was closed (though we knew that when we booked our trip)
scariest moment: being positive during every taxi ride in Cusco that we were being kidnapped...
biggest lesson learned: bargain for EVERYTHING. Even hostel prices are negotiable. (close second: splurge on the luxury busses)